Exclusive interview

How does that work? A look at the technology behind Biomod’s Infusers

image courtesy of Biomod Concepts

The category-defining waterless masks from Biomod, are poised to disrupt the skin care market and are, in the meantime, sparking a fair amount of curiosity among industry insiders. Cosmetics Design caught up with Karine Théberge, CEO at BioMod to find out how Infusers work.

Quickly, to start with, “Infusers are advanced skincare treatments that feature a water-free, dry-to-the touch rejuvenating balm imprinted onto a fabric applicator. In only minutes, these innovative textile carriers feed the skin with millions of vectors packed with active ingredients,” explains Karine Théberge, CEO at Biomod Concepts. (Cosmetics Design covered a bit more of the Biomod and product backstory in this article.)

Waterless formulation

Théberge tells Cosmetics Design that the waterless system ensures the effective delivery of actives and means that a single Infuser can be used more than once.

“Biomod’s Biomimetic MicroVector technology [or BMV, a term the company had trademarked]  is a water-free active ingredient delivery system that allows the prolonged release of actives, powering them deeply into the epidermis,” explainsThéberge.

“A perfect symbiosis between the BMV components and the skin is the key to obtaining water-free moisturizing effects. The actives loaded into the BMVs are infused into all layers of the epidermis as the skin is nourished with the lipidic biomimetic matrix. BMVs are not capsules and therefore dissolve slowly, deeply delivering the enclosed actives, while water-based formulas tend to leave active ingredients on the top layer of the skin.”

And since “BMVs are waterless, so there is no need for harsh chemicals to protect the formula from contamination – think of a lipstick that can be used repeatedly,” says Théberge.

“Based on predictable skin saturation, we determine the proper amount of formula to imprint onto the infuser for the specified number of wears. Scientific testing has proven the release to be equal at each use.”

Innovative technology

Biomod’s Infusers are unlike existing OTC wellness products like Icy Hot patches (which in some regards could seem similar).

“We are totally different,” affirms Théberge. “Unlike current patches that chemically open skin pores to force feed active ingredients, the BMV biomimetic structure naturally feeds the skin with the nutrients it craves. The actives loaded in the lipidic matrix are gently released into the deeper layers of the epidermis, without irritation, or harsh discharge. Our BMV vectors allow the skin to absorb a higher concentration of actives over a longer period, eliminating the potential of skin surface saturation,” she tells Cosmetics Design.

Biomod’s skin care product design is meant to treat the skin all day, even though an Infuser is worn for a short time. A brief “light massage serves only to promote a faster and heavier transfer to the skin upon contact,” notes Théberge. “The skin starts absorbing immediately and will simply continue until it reaches saturation, normally within 10-15 minutes. When the infuser is removed, the BMVs will continue to feed the skin for a period of 6-8 hours. It’s like re-applying the product every time the skin demands it – for a full day,” she says.

Though the product is clean and simple to use, the biotech behind Infusers essentially customizes the delivery of actives for each consumer. The biomimetic system is unique in that it recognizes individual skin needs for a personalized release that your skin controls,” Théberge tells Cosmetics Design.

“Every different BMV formula will absorb at a different rate for each person. The absorption of the actives is natural as the skin gets nourished and hydrated from the components of the microsystem….a moisturizing BMV formula will react and be absorb differently whether your skin is dry, very dry or oily.”

Commercial potential

Théberge believes that the beauty industry is ready for something new. “Our customers have been actively searching for true innovation within the skincare category for years,” she says. “The last technologies to be considered ‘disruptive’ date back to the use of liposomes and nanoparticles, which are both now under scrutiny as to their true efficacy and safety.”

Infusers are already doing well in the skin care market. “Nannette de Gaspé, launched her inaugural collection of anti-aging infusers in Europe and now North America in May 2016.  The impressive widespread trade and consumer press coverage, along with the immediate positive social media buzz ignited by this introduction proves the market’s hunger and readiness for the infusers’ multiple consumer benefits,” notesThéberge.

And, there’s more to come: “we are currently working with several world-leading brands in developing infusers with launches scheduled within the marketplace as early as the end of this year.”

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